Last month’s recipe for Aloo Wadiyan made the Sindhi way- served with Meetha Chawal or sweet rice was the first of many examples that show the Sindhi’s love for pairing strong contrasting flavours. Kutti is another. A salty flatbread that starts off as a Sindhi Koki/Loli, ghee and all, is cooked over low heat to get a colour going on both sides. It is then pulverised while still hot using your hands with butter and sugar, in a movement similar to rubbing butter into flour to make shortbread. The pounding motion in the ukhdi is called kutna from where the name Kutti comes from.The resultant crumbly nummy mess is delicious to have for breakfast, and I grew up eating quite a lot of it. You can also find Kutti served as prasad, and this kutti is a bit high in fat content. For this, similar thick lolas are shaped into roundels, deep-fried and then pounded with the fat.
Anything with whole bits of granulated sugar, I’d refer to as tak-tak; there was tak tak dahi, tak tak malai bread sandwiches and this was tak tak roti. Kutti is served traditionally with papad because the bitter, spicy notes of papad taste wonderful against the sweet Kutti. This family recipe is a perfect addition to my Christmas collection because it’s such a big happy part of my childhood.
Makes 2 flatbreads, when crumbled yields Kutti enough for 4
Whole-wheat Atta 3 cups
Ghee 3-4 tbsp, plus more for cooking
Salt 1 tsp
Milk 3/4th cup to 1 cup, for making the dough
Sugar 1/2 cup
Ground Cardamom 1/4 tsp, for sprinkling (optional)
Combine together the whole wheat atta, ghee and salt together using your hands. Pour in the milk bit by bit till it comes together as a stiff dough. You don’t have to use all the milk.
Divide the mixture into two and roll each out into a thick flatbread. It is okay if the roti has cracked edges, you don’t have to knead it to make a smooth dough.
Heat some ghee on a flat tawa and transfer the rolled out flatbread to the pan and let this cook over low to medium heat. When one side is slightly done, flip it over pressing down all the time using a flat metal spatula. Before the third flip, dollop a bit more ghee around the sides and cook till it is well cooked and has golden brown spots all over.
Slide it off the tawa and add to it half the butter, the sugar and some of the ground cardamom, if using. Give it a good whack with the edges of your palm, before proceeding to mutilate it with your fingers in a claw movement. Taste the kutti.